In the world of cosmetics, acids are key ingredients in skincare. AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), BHA (beta hydroxy acids), and PHA (polyhydroxy acids) are known for their exfoliating properties and are essential in many treatments for achieving smoother, more radiant, and healthier-looking skin. However, what you may not know is that there are different types of these acids—some of them natural—making them ideal for those who seek a gentler yet effective option. In this article, we’ll explain everything about AHA, BHA, and PHA acids, their natural versions, and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine.
What Are AHA, BHA, and PHA?
- AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): AHAs are water-soluble acids mostly derived from fruits and other natural sources. Their main function is to exfoliate the outer layers of the skin, removing dead skin cells and promoting cell renewal. They are ideal for dry and mature skin types.
- BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids): Unlike AHAs, BHAs are oil-soluble, which allows them to penetrate more deeply into the pores. This type of acid is perfect for acne-prone or oily skin, as it helps clear out pores and reduce inflammation.
- PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids): PHAs are a gentler version of AHAs. They are suitable for sensitive skin because they exfoliate without causing irritation. Additionally, they have moisturizing properties, making them perfect for dry or reactive skin.
AHA Acids: Gentle Exfoliation for Radiant Skin
AHAs are known for their ability to remove dead skin cells, leaving the skin smoother, brighter, and rejuvenated. There are several types of AHAs, both synthetic and natural, each offering specific benefits depending on your skin’s needs.
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is one of the most popular AHAs and is derived from fermented milk. It’s an excellent hydrator as it draws moisture into the skin. In addition to its exfoliating action, lactic acid helps improve skin texture by removing dead cells and promoting regeneration. It’s ideal for dry and dehydrated skin.
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds. It is known to be less irritating than other AHAs, making it suitable for sensitive skin. It not only exfoliates but also helps fade dark spots and improve skin texture. It’s a great option for those looking for a gentle yet effective treatment for uneven skin tone.
Lactobionic Acid
Lactobionic acid is a type of PHA with hydrating and antioxidant properties. Derived from lactose, it provides a similar exfoliating effect to lactic acid but is even gentler. It’s perfect for those seeking a light exfoliation without irritation.
Phytic Acid Phytic acid is a natural antioxidant obtained from grains and seeds. It has mild exfoliating properties and also works as a depigmenting agent, making it ideal for improving the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone.
BHA Acids: Purify and Clear the Pores
BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are well known for their effectiveness in treating oily and acne-prone skin. Thanks to their ability to deeply penetrate the pores, they help dissolve sebum buildup and reduce blemishes. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, making them a great option for inflamed or reactive skin.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is one of the most effective and widely used BHAs. Extracted from willow bark, it is known for its ability to enter the pores and dissolve impurities. It’s ideal for treating acne, blackheads, and other skin issues related to excess oil. Its anti-inflammatory action also helps reduce redness and swelling.
PHA Acids: Softness and Hydration for Sensitive Skin
PHAs are a gentler alternative for people with sensitive skin. While they have similar exfoliating effects to AHAs, their larger molecular size means they penetrate more slowly and are less likely to cause irritation. This makes them ideal for reactive or easily irritated skin types.
Gluconolactone
Gluconolactone is a natural PHA derived from glucose. It is known for its hydrating and antioxidant properties, in addition to its ability to exfoliate the skin gently. It’s perfect for sensitive skin and can be used to treat signs of aging by stimulating cell turnover without irritation.
Tranexamic Acid
Although not strictly classified as a PHA, tranexamic acid has become a popular ingredient in products that treat hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting melanin production and is effective in treating dark spots, melasma, and sunspots.
Betaine
Betaine is a natural humectant derived from sugar beets. Although it doesn’t have exfoliating properties like AHA, BHA, or PHA, its hydrating and soothing action makes it an excellent companion for sensitive skin that may be exposed to exfoliating acids.
Ferulic Acid
Ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant derived from plants like rice and corn. While it doesn’t exfoliate like other acids, it is often combined with them for its ability to neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from environmental damage. It’s ideal for enhancing skin radiance and reducing the signs of aging.
Conclusion
AHA, BHA, and PHA acids offer a wide variety of skincare benefits—from exfoliating and renewing to hydrating and fading dark spots. By choosing the right acid for your skin type and needs, you can significantly improve your skin’s appearance and health. Just remember: when incorporating these acids into your routine, always use sun protection, as your skin can become more sensitive to UV exposure.
