Dark spots, uneven skin tone, and melasma are among the most common aesthetic concerns in dermatology and cosmetics. In this article, you’ll discover what causes pigmentation issues, how melanin works, and how to build an effective routine to fight melasma and achieve a brighter, more even complexion.
What Is Skin Pigmentation?
Pigmentation is primarily determined by melanin, a natural pigment produced by melanocytes—specialized cells located in the epidermis. The main role of melanin is to protect the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Without melanin, our skin would burn easily in the sun. Skin color depends on the amount and type of melanin present: eumelanin (brown to black) and pheomelanin (yellow to red). The balance between the two, along with genetic factors, sun exposure, hormones, acne, and the presence of scars, defines our skin tone.
What Causes Dark Spots and Melasma?
Melasma is a complex form of hyperpigmentation that appears mainly on the face. It is influenced by sun exposure, hormonal factors, inflammation, genetics, and damage to the skin barrier. It often worsens during pregnancy, with the use of birth control, hormone treatments, or simply due to chronic sun exposure.
In addition to melasma, other types of pigmentation include post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by acne, burns, or insect bites; hypopigmentation (lighter areas); and vascular pigmentation (visible redness caused by dilated blood vessels).
How Is Melanin Produced?
The process is called melanogenesis, and it involves several steps:
Melanin is synthesized from the amino acid tyrosine, which is converted into DOPA and then into DOPAquinone by the enzyme tyrosinase. From there, two types of melanin are formed: eumelanin and pheomelanin. These pigments are stored in melanosomes within melanocytes and then transferred to keratinocytes in the epidermis, where they act as natural UV filters.
This process can be stimulated by sun exposure, hormones, inflammation, or the presence of free radicals. When it becomes unregulated, it leads to dark spots, as seen in melasma.
Characteristics of Melasma-Affected Skin
Skin affected by melasma shows a series of microscopic changes that explain why this condition is often resistant to treatment:
The epidermis presents irregular hyperpigmentation, increased melanocyte activity, and the presence of melanophages (cells that absorb melanin). Additionally, there is a weakened skin barrier, slower recovery, dilated blood vessels, and, in some cases, slight epidermal thickening.
Increased expression of vasodilators like nitric oxide has also been observed, explaining why heat and sun exposure worsen melasma, even with minimal direct sunlight.
How to Treat Melasma and Pigmentation
Effectively treating melasma requires a holistic approach that combines brightening ingredients, gentle exfoliants, sunscreens, and skin barrier-restoring actives.
Recommended active ingredients:
- Niacinamide and tranexamic acid to inhibit melanosome transfer.
- Hexylresorcinol, Nonapeptide-1, and acetyl-glucosamine to block tyrosinase.
- Mandelic acid, phytic acid, and azelaic acid to gently exfoliate and lower skin pH without irritation.
- Ceramides, vitamin F, squalane, and hesperidin to repair the skin barrier.
- Ferulic acid, vitamin C, and vitamin E as antioxidants and UV protectors.
- Hyaluronic acid, ectoin, and glycerin to maintain hydration.
Important: Avoid hydroquinone without medical supervision, glycolic or salicylic acid if your skin is sensitive, and retinol if you don’t use sunscreen daily.
Ideal Routine for Skin with Melasma or Dark Spots
A proper daily routine can make a real difference in improving skin tone.
In the morning, cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser free from sulfates, fragrances, and mineral oils. Apply a balancing toner, a serum with niacinamide or tranexamic acid, and a calming moisturizer. Finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen, even on cloudy days.
At night, repeat your cleansing routine and apply a brightening serum along with repairing and soothing ingredients. Once or twice a week, you can include exfoliants with PHA or gentle enzymes.
In professional settings, brightening peptide peels like White-up+ peptide peel offer excellent complementary results.
Conclusion
Melasma and pigmentation disorders are complex but not impossible to treat. With the right approach, effective ingredients, and consistency, you can achieve a more even, radiant, and healthy-looking skin. The key is to protect your skin from the sun daily, avoid irritants, maintain proper hydration, and strengthen your skin barrier. Consult a professional to personalize your routine and combine it with professional treatments when needed.
